such a cool tip! I shall try this out today!
A lot of mentions about switching to RAW shooting, but I’m afraid that’s not an option with the P900. And it’s also why I waited for its descendant, the 950 to arrive and why it’s absolutely my favourite nature camera. Combined with a very pocketable macro clip-on from Raynox, it covers a tremendous range of nature shooting. Bugs to birds, and lots in between (or beyond: landscapes and even moon or eclipse pics).
But I do have a few suggestions that might help you boost your macro success.
Another limitation of the P-superzoom cameras, is that for max macro closeup you have to get so close to the subject that you either spook away your subjects, or lose the built-in flash’s usefulness because the lens blocks most of the light when you get really close.
I have found that the best solution for me was to invest in a Raynox macro clip-on lens. I got real lucky and found both models (the 150, and the 250mm) at a thrift store for a fraction of the units, new.
Like I said, they are very small and there’s no reason you can’t have them for years, decades even without worrying about obsolescence – it’s simply glass. Also transferable to other lenses and camera makes and models.
These clip-on lenses take some time to get used to. Especially navigating vignetting (dark corners) and limited focal depth. For the 900 cameras, the maximum aperture is F8, so you work to get a sense of what that means in focal terms. When I am strictly out shooting macro, I prefer to use my Sony Alpha instead because I use a dedicated Llawo 100mm lens which stops down to F22 giving me more range at the real tinies. But! You can also add a Raynox lens to the dedicated lens to add anywhere from 20-40 percent more magnification.
The 900 Nikon cameras though all use a very small main sensor. It’s about the same size as most smartphones. And that can be a problem at extreme end of zoom because the sensor grid is much finer than a lens equipped with an interchangeable lens and you start to see something called diffraction blooming – it’s all just physics.
If I had to pick between a Raynox 150 and a Raynox 250 for a macro adapter? I’d probably go to a 150. A little less maximum mag – but because of the diffraction I mentioned, it’s essentially the same useful range of magnification. And definitely less vignetting and even greater lens end to subject distance. Mostly around 6-8 inches.
With that extra distance (compared to using you P900 macro without the Raynox), the on-camera flash is much more functional. But one thing you might want to consider is getting some clear frosted tape, and cut/stick 3 or 4 strips of that tape right over the glass window of the in-camera flash. This helps a lot as a kind of cheap and easy diffuser. I tend to use it even in broad daylight to round out and fill the shadows for more detail.
As for exposure, this is where the P900 without RAW format support has a problem in comparison to shooting with a model that has RAW support (like the 950). You are kinda at the mercy of the built-in conversion to JPG for colour and tone. Sure, there are some controls, but once you start shooting RAW you can right away see what an advantage it has over the JPG workflow.
One of the best parts of RAW processing is control of shadow detail and expanding the usable higher ISO rating of a camera. I use center spot metering in my 950’s setup as it allows me to get the system to work for difficult shots that are too high in contrast. A black bug on white sand, say – or an all white moth on a dark piece of bark.
When you shoot in RAW, you may be surprised to see a very washed-out image in the camera screen preview display, but you learn that this is actually good. The screen cannot display the RAW tonal range but when you get back home and load it into the editor you’ll see that there is so much more detail and easily removed noise there than you would believe was possible.
Knowing this (from a lot of trial and error), I shoot the bulk of my nature shots with the 950 camera in manual mode, aperture f8 and a shutter speed of anywhere from 1/500 to 1/1000 second. And – this is the part that can only be done with RAW, I set the ISO setting to Auto at the high end of the range ISO 3200. And that’s it. The auto ISO leaves me with little to worry about in most shooting situations from full sun to dusky shadows. And I leave the pop-up flash on too, as it helps balance out the various lighting situations.
The other thing that the 950 model has that the 900 does not is 4K video support. I have shot some of my best macro shots using the video mode. Especially for extra active bugs. But… that’s another story. Here’s a little image I made up of two shots I made using these settings taken just minutes apart on my walk. The isopod is with the Raynox attached, the Redtail, just the camera without the Raynox. Both shot in RAW and edited in software (mostly Photoshop and DxO PureRaw). One camera, plus one small clip-on and you’ve got a lot covered.
@broacher a whole lot to absorb! I will take some time to look up and try out all the things you mentioned
I also need to understand this better so pls excuse my short reply :)
The simplest answer is - do not use flash at all (unless it is pitch dark). Get a Pixel phone and use that at 2x magnification, then use Affinity Photo (or what-have-you) to zoom in and sharpen. The results will surprise you.
The ‘answers’ above might be good if you are a serious technician but you don’t need to be that for iNat.
I might get a pixel soon, worth a try :)
if you get an older model, avoid the 6. it’s awful for macro.
I’m going to piggyback on this thread. I’m running into an interesting problem I recently got an olympus TG-7 (mostly for macro) and 98% of the time it works just like I want it to but this last week I want into an interesting problem. It compensated for the coloring of a light, and in doing so it turned the dark maroon moth to a rather bland sandy color.
Does anyone else have this? or do you just adjust it post photo snap?
same happens here!
It’s called “white balance”, good image editors can handle that, (at least with RAW files, usually you just need to pick a white/grey/black area on your image to tell the app what is neutral, or alternatively set colors manually.)
It can also be done on camera (not sure about your TG-7), but I find is more complicated than in post…
thank you all, I seem to have found a solution, though all of you had given me a wide range of options it didnt work for me because my camera is too old and few buttons dont work anymore. worry not! your suggestions will definitely work when I get a new camera but for now the easy fix for me was going to aperture priority mode and adjusting exposure from there (for some reason manual, shutter priority or user mode dont let me adjust exposure and im unsure whether its the button issue or the mode itself)
yepp very true
I might try to get one, though currently out of budget!
what does more range mean? I am unable to understand this 
ahhh ill keep this in mind!
I had tried this earlier as @GothHobbit had also suggested but it hadnt work because the exposure simply bruteforced and the pics ended up same but I think now that ive figured some things out, results will be better!
quick question, how do you transfer images n videos? I am at the mercy of WMU app which doesnt show the videos on my camera for some reason and I cannot access the bluetooth connection because menu button doesnt work :')
And also, very good pics!!