How to keep your camera cool in the hot sun?

There you have the reason – it’s that combination of factors. Not unsual.

Have a look at this section titled ‘Overheating tests’ of the review video of the Fujifilm X-H2S which mentions a clip-on fan.

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It kills you on a neck strap, but if you use a shoulder sling and a hip-holster it’s pretty much fine.

That’s my go-to when I have to have my camera and long lens accessible while I’m walking.’

Sometimes I stick the tripod mount of the lens into my belt if I don’t have my holster with me. That works ok too.

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Hip-holsters I find too bulky, I prefer a waist pack, just wide and deep enough to hold the camera+lens when I need both hands for something else (e.g. picking about dog poo):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h5b7s8whgk1fvpw/11_InsertLensFirst.jpg?dl=0

Or, when just out and about in the garden, a simple elastic belt without buckle like this one worn on top of my clothes comes in very handy.
I wear this belt anyway because my keys and knife kept falling out of my pockets when bending down or crouching. Attached with carabiners to that rectangular bit between the two ends, they won’t get lost. And so I just stick the lens between my body and the belt when needed.

My hikes wimp out when it is too hot for me. In our mediterranean climate I sometimes have to ‘thaw’ numb electronics at the start of a winter morning. Never had overheating, but, I don’t do videos.

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My problem is usually the opposite - How to keep the camera/battery warm. And my hands. I know that the armpit and the crotch are the warmest places on the human body (that’s where we put Ice packs to cool patients with extremely high temperatures), but I won’t be storing batteries in those two places! So far, though, it hasn’t been a problem.
We do get 30 C + heat in the summer, but not often. I don’t like heat, so don’t stay out long enough that my camera has ever gotten too hot.

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I feel you there, my setup weighs about the same. There are several non-neck straps out there that might help you out there. People really like the blackrapid shoulder straps, which I believe mount to the tripod mount(s), peak design has some simple over the shoulder sling straps and is well-known for their slide strap, and I use an op tech dual harness which is admittedly not stylish but reasonably comfortable and mounts to the camera strap mounts which IMO makes it slightly faster to bring up and start shooting (but maybe I’m just imagining that).

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Agreed … in the arid Southwest, moisture or heat are not what I worry about but sand or fine grit, especially on a windy day, likely are the biggest threat to camera gear.

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I use a neoprene lunch bag with shoulder strap as a camera bag when I go out looking for dragonflies in the heat of the day. It is easy to take out and put back the camera in the bag at my side. The neoprene is a good insulator. I suppose you could put a cold pack inside if you really wanted to. The neoprene offers some padding, too. You can sit on it or kneel on it when you take photos of something close to the ground.

I have had two bags in the past decade or so. Both were made by Built. Both were very good. I do a lot of hiking and birding. So, eventually they wear out over the years.

They are also excellent for carrying your camera in the winter when it is really cold. The bag is waterproof. I can also put an extra pair of gloves, an extra cap or a small towel in it.

I used to get them at Target. But, they don’t always have them with a shoulder strap anymore.

https://www.amazon.com/BUILT-Relish-Neoprene-Adjustable-Crossbody/dp/B004SPVZCK/ref=asc_df_B004SPVZCK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071194053&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9759509503995377551&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015333&hvtargid=pla-348438706302&th=1

I use a neoprene lunch bag with shoulder strap as a camera bag all year round.

I have had two bags in the past decade or so. Both were made by Built. Both were very good. I do a lot of hiking and birding. So, eventually they wear out over the years.

They are excellent for carrying your camera in the winter when it is really cold. The bag is waterproof. I can also put an extra pair of gloves, an extra cap or a small towel in it.

I use wool fingerless gloves with a mitten flap when I am out in the winter.

I used to get the neoprene lunch bags at Target. But, they don’t always have them with a shoulder strap.

https://www.amazon.com/BUILT-Relish-Neoprene-Adjustable-Crossbody/dp/B004SPVZCK/ref=asc_df_B004SPVZCK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071194053&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9759509503995377551&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015333&hvtargid=pla-348438706302&th=1

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Hi,
Nothing that I am aware of keeping your gear cool while shooting besides jerry-rigging something out of an insulation box, or wearing an 5XL sombrero ( Please send pictures :))
But, Costco has an insulated backpack (Titan cooler) with 2 icepacks in 2 outside pockets (removable).
It’s waterproof, insulated and as the icepacks are outside the holding compartment, there is no noticeable condensation. It’s also the one on my profile picture, and on that (rainy) day, my gear was inside.
I think it’s about $40 and worth every cent.

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A bag like that doesn’t hold a long lens. I carry the Sony 200-600 mm on a regular basis. That fits into a backpack, but not into any waist pack. The holster is for simple wandering around, or longer things (or if I have to go someplace with it) I’ll keep it in the backpack until I’m where I need to be.

The hip holster I have is not at all bulky, it lies flat along my thigh and has a loop with a magnetic closure to hold the lens in place. Makes getting the camera ready a simple pull on the toggle that’s part of the motion of lifting the camera.

As I said, I’ll sometimes tuck the tripod mount on the lens into my belt instead, which also works ok.

It all depends on your camera and lens. For my macro photography I use a smaller camera with the macro lens on it and that goes into a waist belt that I tend to use as a shoulder bag rather than a waist belt.

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Welcome to the forum. Do the ice packs contain the blue gel beads or dihydrogen monoxide? (I had to look up your user name - clever! :)

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Indeed. My lens is an equivalent 200-800mm in FF terms, and it fits – in that picture in fact it is attached to the camera.

My iPhone X shuts down/stops working when it overheats on super hot days in NYC, and it also shuts down when it gets too cold during the worst winter days.

On the brutally cold days, it is easy enough to tuck my phone inside my clothes until it warms up, but in summer, shading it is not enough. I now intend to use a small insulated bag with a tiny frozen bottle of water inside to cool it down rapidly.

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For what it’s worth, I’ve spent enough (or more than enough) time in 100+ temperatures, but I very rarely shoot video and am almost never outside without a wide-brimmed hat. So, yup, our cases are different. :-)

I always put my camera back in its case when I’m not using it to minimise the time it’s in direct sunlight. As long as both the case strap and camera strap are around my neck and I don’t close the zip, it doesn’t add much time or inconvenience to getting ready to take a shot … although I have to admit I’ve missed a couple of opportunities when the slight noise of the camera rubbing on the material has startled my subject.

Similar to @cynodon’s reply. For smartphones, maybe use a white phone case since white reflects more light than darker colors, so less radiant heating. For stand-alone cameras, just spray paint the body white (obviously, not a DSLR owner here, suggestion is heresy).

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not that i would ever do this, but i wonder if this would actually be very effective? in my experience, white cars left in the sun would still get very hot – even hotter than a shaded black car.

i had thought about putting some white stickers on the black metal dials on my camera, but then i thought maybe they were actually designed to transfer heat from the interior of the camera to the exterior. if so, then adding stickers would actually make the dials less efficient at dispersing heat (maybe).

That’s a great point! I’m pretty sure radiative cooling is only very effective when there’s a big temperature difference between an object and environment so there’s only so much that can be done for cars in a hot environment.

Metal parts on the camera for heat transfer make a lot of sense too! The camera body is probably some kind of FRP which wouldn’t conduct heat from electronics to the environment as well as metal. Maybe adding stickers would even make it worse?

I was thinking the same thing! My phone case is black, which may be part of the problem.

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