my town’s use of herbicides to control invasive species – namely Japanese knotweed, Purple loosestrife, Oriental bittersweet, Norway maple, etc
Herbicide is the only realistic control for Japanese knotweed, but I wouldn’t use herbicide on the other three.
Purple loosestrife has a bio-control that seems to be quite effective. My town in north-central Massachusetts was one of the release sites. It seems to have worked. Purple loosestrife isn’t gone (it never will be), but the beetle keeps it to a level where it doesn’t overrun the ecosystem. Now phragmites is taking over, but that’s another story.
Bittersweet is best just cut. For small stems, pull up the roots, and keep pulling by following the stringers along. They are quite shallow extending laterally. For large vines, cut out a section that you can easily reach from the ground. That will kill whatever is above. Then paint or do a quick spray of glyphosate on the cut stump now sticking out of the ground. This must be done quickly after cutting, preferably within a minute or two.
For Norway maple, just cut it. There will be some stump sprouts, and maybe other sprouts do to existing seeds. Pull the small ones and cut the ones coming from the old stump. Eventually the roots will be exhausted. It helps to do a quick spray of herbicide on the stump when it was originally cut.
Other then on cut stumps, you don’t need herbicide for any other species you listed except knotweed. Even then, the best first pass treatment is to cut the knotweed low to the ground just below a knot, then drip a little herbicide into the hollow stem. Unlike what others say, it doesn’t take a lot. We use just 2 ml of properly diluted Roundup Pro (glyphosate). Give that a few weeks at least, then treat the stragglers with foliar spray in the fall, about the time healthy plants would be blooming.
By the way, we (the Town of Groton Invasive Species Committee) have done some research on different treatments for knotweed. We found that very dilute triclopyr works really well as a foliar spray. Specifically, we use Garlon 4 Ultra, with a little bit of methylated seed oil added as a surfactant. Knotweed is highly susceptible to triclopyr, which is very useful if there is grass around the knotweed you want to keep. Use 1/4 strength of what the label would otherwise imply. 1/2 strength works better than full strength (relative to label recommendations), and 1/4 strength works better then 1/2 strength. I don’t know exactly why, but my guess is that triclopyr otherwise kills the leaves so fast that they don’t have time to pass on the herbicide into the roots before they die.
I know that glyphosate is usually preferred to triclopyr mostly due to the cost, but when you’re only using 1/4 the normal strength, it gets a lot cheaper. That and the higher dilution of Garlon 4 Ultra over something like Roundup Pro in the first place means the Garlon treatment is actually cheaper.